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Alaska Cruise Review: Hello from Ketchikan and Juneau - May 2007

Aside from the geography, botany, wildlife, and weather, visiting Southeast Alaska is often curious and I wonder what it might be like to live at the north end of a coastal waterway that begins in Seattle, at the eastern edge of a marine community that is linked to Russia and Siberia, and in towns that are for the post part unlinked by roads and accessible only to boat and airplane, such as Ketchikan and Juneau.

I just returned from Ketchikan and Juneau,  I was in town to meet the first ships Spirit of Discovery and Spirit of Endeavour arriving for the summer season. Each visit to Alaska renews my love for its beauty. The snow on the mountains, the crisp fresh air, the feel of the last frontier, a million miles away from the lower 48.

Early morning in Ketchikan brings the huge Princess ship into town. 2,500 people line up to get off the ship with the majority heading for the tourist stores.

Two o'clock in the afternoon the Spirit of Discovery arrives into the small private dock with 84 passengers. The gangplank is lowered, off the ship and many head into town to the Alaska Discovery Center with their free ticket provided by the Cruise West staff. Some chose to go on small 20 passengers buses to be taken out to excursions that provide cultural immersion into this, the first of their Alaska ports. Along with them are the Cruise West staff and Ketchikan locals to take them on specially planned experiences. 

Here are some tidbits:
On your flight, window seat on the right side going north. If it is clear it is spectacular. We saw brown bears as we were landing.

Notes on Ketchikan

The site of an ancient Tlingit fish camp and a supply town during the gold rush, Ketchikan is 3 miles long and only a couple of blocks deep. It is considered an Alaska native cultural center for Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian clans.

Arrive a day early and stay at the lovely Cape Fox Lodge. The rooms overlooking the water offer spectacular views, the restaurant is excellent for all meals. If not staying at the hotel you can take the tramway up to the hotel for the views.

Anabelles, lovely restaurant. Ketchi Candy Store, is not to be missed, they make everything there and have a huge selection of Sugar Free. You will find the crew from the Cruise West ship buying their chocolate covered Oreos.. Cruise West will direct you to the locally owned stores, we want to support them. My favorite souvenir, the Alaska ULU Knife. www.ulu.com, I have the Inupiat style and use it all the time. I purchased mine from the Tongress Trading Company along Front Street. 

When getting off the ship, your Cruise West director will give you a free pass to the  Alaska Discovery Center, a wonderful small museum. Totem Heritage Center is also interesting, going down in the basement in a private tour with 100 year old totem polls, 10 of us and curator was really a special treat.

I joined the tour out to Saxon Village with Joe Williams, Joe Williams presents cultural immersion, don't miss anything he offers. Joe, from the Tlingit clan, is the Mayor of Ketchikan and fascinating to listen to. He presents lectures on the ship when docked in Ketchikan, and brings his whole family.

There is kayaking through Creek Street, zip line in the rainforest, a real adrenalin rush, and many other things to do while in port.  For an unusual and fun tour of Ketchikan call my friend Lois, she has been a school teacher for so many years everyone in Ketchikan knows her. She gives tours in her restored 1950 Chevy. www.classictours.com Tell her I sent you, she is a kick. 

Notes on Juneau

Arriving in Juneau to meet the Spirit of Yorktown and Spirit of Alaska.

Nestled in a narrow fjord with Mount Juneau and Mount Roberts towering above it, Juneau enjoys a majestic setting. To the east is the vast glacier ice known as the Juneau Icefield, and to the west are the wilderness islands of the Inside Passage.

Early morning brings in the Princess and Holland America ships, 2500 per ship. They line up to get off the ship and again most head for the tourist shops. They have been in Alaska for 3 days and probably have not seen a whale or eagle from their ship. So they head out on very expensive shore excursions to experience Alaska away from their big ship.

The passengers on the Spirit of Yorktown and Spirit of Alaska have a night at the Goldbelt Hotel included in their cruise experience. They spend the night and experience the real "Alaska" after the big ships pull out and shops close up. They have had time to visit Mendenhall Glacier, taken a helicopter over the glacier, dog sled on the glacier, possibly see bears and salmon swimming in the creeks. A chance to experience dinner and Alaska seafood in one of the many delicious restaurants that Juneau has to offer. The small ship experience immerses you in the Alaskan culture.

Being the capital of Alaska Juneau is always a busy vibrant frontier town. Everything is walking distance or bus service in front of the Visitors Bureau. I love the Red Dog Saloon for a lunch or dinner. If there is line up forget it, your time is valuable. I took a tour out to Mendenhall Glacier, gorgeous as usual. You can kayak in front of the glacier or check out the wonderful visitors center. Helicopter and dogsled is the premier excursion one can do in Juneau.

Many restaurants in town, honestly I have never had a bad meal in Juneau. Visit a liquor store for the different Alaskan beers, great present to take home. Goldbelt hotel has lovely views of the channel where the small ships dock. Westmark Baranoff, historic registered hotel is in the center of town, the two best hotels in the area. Mt. Roberts Tramway takes you up to a whole different Juneau at the top of the mountain. Lots of hiking trails, restaurant, nature displays etc.bear, fox, moose sightings are frequent.

Linda Androlia
Sunstone Tours & Cruises