High Arctic: Ellesmere, Greenland, and Baffin

Travel aboard the powerful icebreaker, Kapitan Khlebnikov, to explore Ellesmere Island and Greenland. Along a coastline of towering mountains, glaciers, steep fjords, and pack ice, view magnetic wildlife such as polar bears and walrus as well as thick-billed murres, red-throated loons, and snowy owls. On a backdrop of tundra discover Arctic poppies and muskoxen; in protected fjords visit remote villages and take helicopter excursions to view the ice cap; and on deserted islands and harbors view archaeological sites and abandoned outposts.

Itinerary

Day 1 - USA / Ottawa, Canada
Arrive in Ottawa and transfer independently to our downtown hotel for an overnight stay. Canada’s bilingual capital city is a charming blend of historic and modern architecture. Gather this evening for cocktails, a welcome dinner, and briefing.

Day 2 - Ottawa / Iqaluit, Baffin Island / Embark The Kapitan Khlebnikov
We depart this morning for our flight to Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut and main settlement of remote Baffin Island. Formerly part of Canada’s Northwest Territories, Nunavut was admitted to the federation of Canada in the late 1990s. Villages, few and far between in this remote territory, are home to only small populations of subsistence fishermen and hunters.

Two-thirds of Iqaluit’s population, totaling about 6,200, is native Inuit, but their heritage has long been influenced by European traders, whalers, missionaries, and an American WWII military base. A city tour takes us from the original Inuit settlement site to the downtown area where we witness the culture and community life of Nunavut and the Iqaluit people. We also visit the local Museum and visitor center, followed by lunch and a nature walk along the shores of the Sylvia Grinnell River. In the late afternoon we embark the Kapitan Khlebnikov by Zodiac and set sail in the evening.

Day 3 - Lady Franklin Island
We plan to visit Lady Franklin Island today. Polar bear sightings are possible here depending on the position of the receding northern ice pack. Birders watch for Kumlien’s gulls nesting on cliff-tops.

Day 4 - Cape Dyer Area Expedition Stop
This morning we pass by Cape Dyer where a Distant Early Warning station sits high on the bluff. Known as the DEW Line, this joint American-Canadian project created radar stations across the Arctic to detect any Soviet incursions during the Cold War. We cross the Arctic Circle here and plan to make an expedition stop in this remote area where wildlife abounds. In the afternoon we begin our crossing to Greenland, where ice floes, bergs, and possibly even pack ice might be drifting along the coast, with further opportunity to watch for the profuse wildlife that congregates at the southern edge of the seasonal ice.

Day 5 - Uummannaq, Greenland
Join our marine biologist on deck as we search the waters of this region for minke and fin whales. Entering Uummannaq Fjord this afternoon we spot the town of the same name picturesquely perched on the steep hillsides of this inlet. Translated, Uummannaq means “heart-shaped,” and reflects the shape of the 3,300-foot mountain which backdrops the town. The homes beneath the towering peak are anchored in place by strong steel cables which we observe as we walk through the fascinating remote outpost and visit the local museum with its fine collection of Greenland crafts. Nearby, we visit the site of Greenland’s most important archaeological discovery, made in 1972—here eight remarkably well-preserved 500 year-old mummies were found, revealing a wealth of information on Inuit life and what they wore in this cold region.

Day 6 - Upernavik
An archipelago of rocky islands punctuates the Greenland coast as we make our way to Upernavik, founded as an outpost of Danish traders in 1780. The village of multi-colored houses clings to the slopes, a picturesque contrast to the stark monotone of the surrounding rocks. We take Zodiacs ashore and are warmly greeted by the resident Greenlanders who blend the old ways of subsistence living with modern commercial fishing methods. The cliffside cemetery is fascinating; since there is no soil here, only rock, graves of stone mounds are closely packed above ground. We visit the tiny museum filled with local memorabilia and view the village school. In the afternoon enjoy fjord cruising in this pristine and spectacular environment.

Day 7 - Expedition Stop
Melville Bay—the historically important land of the Inuit—and its spectacular scenic setting appear on the horizon this morning. When John Ross came upon the Inuit at Cape York in 1819, they were so isolated they believed themselves to be the only people in the world. Even today few ships sail this far north along the Greenland coast but our powerful icebreaker enables us to pass through the heavy drift ice that is typical of the region. We will be on deck to watch the Kapitan Khlebnikov at work and to keep a lookout for harbor seals, polar bears, and numerous other marine mammals found here. Weather permitting, we may make an expedition stop along the coast.

Day 8 - Qaanaaq (Thule)
Visual drama unfolds before us today in Murchison Sound where the Greenland ice cap tumbles down to the shore along steep fjords and huge blue and white icebergs drift in front of striking red cliffs. Narwhal are often seen in the area at this time of year. We explore the town of Qaanaaq (Thule), the administrative capital of northern Greenland and one of the northernmost naturally inhabited communities in the world. About 300 Greenlanders call the town home.

Day 9 - Coburg Island, Canada / Grise Fjord, Ellesmere Island
Sailing back across Baffin Bay, we arrive at the entrance to Jones Sound and the wildlife reserve of Coburg Island. Pending permission, we plan to cruise by Zodiac along the spectacular seabird cliffs here. An estimated 30,000 pairs of black-legged kittiwakes crowd the rocky ledges, along with 160,000 pairs of thick-billed murres. As most of the murre chicks have already fledged by the time we arrive, we see them diving and feeding in the rich waters along the shore. We continue to Grise Fjord, a tiny, mountain-surrounded Inuit hamlet located at the southern tip of Ellesmere and one of only three permanent settlements on the island. Old habitation sites from the Thule people proliferate in the area, as does marine, bird, and wildlife, including polar bears, belugas, walrus, rock ptarmigans, snow geese, and snow buntings.

Day 10 - Hell Gate / Norwegian Bay
Today we make personal expedition history. We round the southwest coast of Ellesmere Island and cross the glorious waterway of Hell Gate. Even though the strong currents in this narrow passage prevent the water from freezing even at the height of winter, it has been navigated by only a handful of vessels before us. As we push farther north into Norwegian Bay and on to Eureka Sound, our powerful icebreaker will be tackling thick ice. Inevitably our rate of progress will depend on conditions, but constant helicopter reconnaissance will help the Captain plan our route. As we stand out on deck to watch the pilots and the Kapitan Khlebnikov at work, we keep a lookout for polar bears and other wildlife.

Day 11 - Tanquary Fjord
Our destination today is Tanquary Fjord where we approach 81 degrees north and enter Ellesmere Island (Quttinirpaaq) National Park. The head of the fjord lies in a beautiful valley surrounded by high mountains and glaciers flowing to the water. Canada’s northernmost land and eastern Canada’s highest peak are within the park boundaries. The vegetation is surprisingly lush and we look for mountain avens, saxifrage, Arctic willow, dwarf fireweed, poppies, Arctic cotton grass, and white Arctic bell heather. We also hope to see large numbers of Arctic hares, small roaming bands of endangered Peary caribou, and herds of muskoxen. Whales cruise along the coast, and polar bears and Arctic wolves live on these shores. If weather permits helicopter sightseeing flights take us to view the spectacular landscapes of Ellesmere.

Day 12 - Eureka Station / Axel Heiberg Island
Today we leave Tanquary Fjord and head south for Eureka, about midway along the west coast of Ellesmere Island. We visit Eureka Station, an isolated weather station, and enjoy unforgettable helicopter flights over Axel Heiberg Island. Twelve hundred miles north of the tree line, this is a remote and beautiful island offering chances to spot muskoxen, wolves, and Arctic hares.

Day 13 - Norwegian Bay / Belcher Channel / Little Cornwallis Island
Continuing south, the Arctic pack ice frequently blocks passage at this critical juncture making it impossible for any ship other than a powerful icebreaker to pass. We expect to battle through thick, multi-year ice and vast ice floes—some of the most challenging ice conditions in the entire Arctic. Along the way we will keep a lookout for polar bears, often encountered in this region. Depending on ice conditions we may visit Bathurst Island, rich in birdlife and Arctic flora, and we will pass the Polaris Mine on Little Cornwallis Island, the most northerly metal mine in the world. We then proceed via Crozier Strait into Lancaster Sound, watching for narwhal and beluga. We also hope to see walrus which often gather to feed in these waters.

Day 14 - Beechey Island
Our sailing progress through Norwegian Bay and Belcher Channel determines today’s expedition stops. If possible, we head for Beechey Island, where Sir John Franklin and his men spent a winter in the mid-1800s before disappearing forever—a tragedy that motivated one of the greatest search missions ever known. At this desolate spot, we contemplate the lonely Franklin Memorial.

Day 15 - Resolute, Cornwallis Island / Disembark, Ottawa
This morning we disembark in Resolute for a tour of the local area before transfer-ring to the airport for our flight back to Ottawa. Lunch and dinner are included on our flight; upon arrival we transfer to our hotel for the night.

Day 16 - Ottawa / USA
After breakfast transfer independently to the airport for your flights homeward.

What's Included:

Accommodations in our hotels and on board the Kapitan Khlebnikov as outlined in the itinerary; all onboard meals; all group meals on land; services of the expedition staff, including lectures, briefings, slide/film shows; excursions by Zodiac and helicopter; landing and port fees; all gratuities.

What's Not Included:

Any air fare on scheduled or charter flights; excess baggage charges*; airport arrival and departure taxes; transfers for arrivals and departures in and out of Ottawa; passport and/or visa fees; travel insurance (highly recommended); items of a personal nature such as laundry, bar charges, alcoholic beverages, e-mail/fax/telephone charges.

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